Surf

On a mission from god.

the last minute trip in desperation for freedom. for a break from everything anything everyone Anyone.the wife is going to see the in laws. run for the hills got a cheap ticket to Honolulu. convinced my friend to go. almost got divorced over it. been working so long I forgot feels like to do anything else.airlines don't take anything over eight feet anymore had to rent a bored when I hit the ground ever I'm going to do this out on the wave switching feet walking the line hangin 5 Toes thank fucking god.forgot I was still alive.deep breath down the face whats real......